How do suppressors attach to pistols




















For another, it allows the use of a muzzle brake or flash hider when you want one without having to constantly swap out different devices on the threaded muzzle. Many suppressor-ready muzzle brakes are threaded for common suppressors or quick detach platforms. Silencer Central offers suppressors and muzzle brakes that are compatible with each other and various popular patterns. You typically find these kinds of setups on semi-auto sporting and tactical rifles due to the fact they almost always have threaded muzzles and some sort of flash hider or muzzle brake setup.

However, nothing says they cannot be used on other types of guns, as almost any centerfire rifle benefits from muzzle brakes and flash hiders. There are still some esoteric and oddball clamp-on or other sorts of methods to mount a suppressor on some kinds of guns that lack standard barrel threading. The thing all suppressor owners dread most, other than filling out ATF paperwork , is an off-center suppressor.

A suppressor not properly lined up on your barrel can lead to bullets not exiting the suppressor properly and striking the internal baffles or the end cap of your expensive suppressor. Threading a barrel is a precise practice that is still surprisingly done by hand in many cases. That means a threading job is only as good as the quality of tools and gauges used and the skill of the person doing the threading.

However, there is a better way. This is an important detail that will hold for all suppressor mounting applications: do not ever use the standard washers that come with, or are used with, flash hiders, muzzle brakes or other doodads on the muzzle.

None of them. If you ever do have need of some sort of shim or spacer to get a mount, device or other suppressor gizmo properly timed on the muzzle, you should only use whatever washers that manufacturer supplied. They will be guaranteed flat, something other washers cannot be. With the flash hider off, clean the threads. You can brush them with a nylon bristle cleaning brush, you can use a wire brush, you can even get out a dental pick and pry the residues out of the threads.

But get them clean. It would not be beyond reason, if you have one available, to use a tapping die to chase the threads and make sure they are clean. Clean all the gunk off of that surface, also. Then insert your Geissele alignment rod. What is it, really? This part applies to all suppressor mounting systems and applications. Pay attention, the suppressor you bust may be your own. And probably will be, when the owner insists you pay for its replacement. If it is Fail, or Epic Fail, then you cannot use your suppressor on that rifle.

You may only have the one rifle and the one suppressor. I feel for you, but having only one of each is not going to change the results or the future. If you mount that suppressor on that rifle, there will be an unpleasant surprise, and very soon. A inch rifle can be trimmed back an inch, re-threaded, and be a one-off rifle. If it is off-center but not touching, then you have to decide how much risk you are willing to take. A very slightly off-center but not touching situation is no big deal.

But if it is off-center and not touching but almost touching, then the risk increases. One thing you can try here is remove the suppressor, re-clean the threads and try again. Also, you can use a torque wrench or an open-end wrench and an educated arm to tighten the suppressor to its correct working torque.

You might get lucky. You might find that there was some un-noticed bit of grit or left-behind Loctite that caused your suppressor to tilt slightly. Also, you might find that the bearing shoulder has a slight high point, and when you tighten the suppressor it evens out, straightens up, and your suppressor now passes the test.

In a rare instance, there might be a left-behind tool mark on the bearing shoulder, and carefully stoning this flush removes the suppressor tilt. Your suppressor tightens on with the alignment rod, centered. Suppressors have the additional benefit of reducing the muzzle flash as well. Instead, it suppresses the noise significantly by capturing and slowly releasing the rapidly expanding gases used to propel a bullet out of the gun barrel.

Suppressors come in two types of form factors, direct thread and quick attach, which provide different characteristics and capabilities for the shooter. The most commonly used type of sound suppressors is the direct thread suppressor.

It is the simplest form of a mounting system where you only require a weapon that has a threaded barrel. The suppressor can be easily installed by screwing it directly into the threaded barrel. These types of suppressors come in two sub-types as well, locking and non-locking. Both of these types are installed in similar ways. Quick attach suppressors require an additional accessory, such as a muzzle brake or flash hider, in order to mount onto the weapon.

To use this type of suppressor, you need to thread your brake or hider onto the barrel of your gun, after which you can mount the quick attach onto the muzzle device. The only difference between locking and non-locking quick-attaches is the fact that non-locking means, as the name would suggest, they do not have any locking mechanism. Back in , an American inventor by the name of Hiram Percy Maxim created the first working suppressor, which was available for commercial sale. Firearm innovation ran through his blood with his father, Sir Hiram Stevens Maxim, having invented the first portable version of a fully automatic machine gun.

That company is still around today as a leading manufacturer of control silencers for exhaust, emissions, and more.

Some manufacturers require barrel-bushing, the installation of taper pins, or pinging the barrel without thread to secure the suppressors. It is also not advisable to point your gun or rifle at anything, especially people.

Attaching devices like muzzle brakes, compensators , suppressors, and silencers to a non-threaded barrel needs to be precise, detailed, and thorough to ensure your safety. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

At Lunde Studio , our primary goal is to provide a dedicated resource for all gun enthusiasts from all walks of life. Skip to content Lunde Studio is reader-supported. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission from Amazon at no extra cost to you. Learn more. Prepare the necessary items 1. Make sure the weapon is completely unloaded 1. Disassemble your gun 1.



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